24 July 2012 South African President Jacob Zuma has congratulated India’s Congress heavyweight and former finance minister, Pranab Mukherjee, on being elected the 13th President of India on Sunday. India’s President is a ceremonial head of state and is elected by an electoral college comprising Members of Parliament and state legislators. India’s executive head of state is Prime Minister Manmohan Singh.‘Engaging India at the highest level’ In a statement on Monday, Zuma said South Africa looked forward to continuing its engagements with India at the highest level. “South Africa will also explore new opportunities in both the bilateral and multilateral environments to engage India in an evolving global environment.” Noting that India is a strategic partner, Zuma said South Africa’s objective will be to build on the strong bilateral relationship and continue to foster goodwill and sound relations across a broad spectrum. The two countries are strategic partners at a multilateral level and have created a platform for cooperating in various forums, namely the Brazil, Russia, India, China, South Africa (BRICS) forum; the India, Brazil, South Africa (IBSA); the Brazil, South Africa, India, China – a climate change-specific forum; Group of 20 (G20) and India- Africa Forum, all of which reinforce the strong bilateral relationship between the two countries. Mukherjee defeated his main challenger and former parliament speaker, P.A. Sangma, by more than 50%. He was nominated by the Congress-led United Progressive Alliance to contest the presidential poll held on 19 July and has held key portfolios like defence and foreign ministries in his political career spanning over 43 years. The 77-year-old Mukherjee will be sworn in as the country’s President by the Chief Justice of India on Wednesday, succeeding the incumbent Head of State Pratibha Patil whose five-year term ends on the same day. Source: SANews.gov.za
The thinner strip of wood on the top of the gadget provides tension on the wire when it is heated (attach the bottom of the wire, press down on the strip, and attach the top of the wire).The power is provided by a 50-watt 12-volt halogen transformer. I used a Variac to fine-tune the temperature of the wire, but my guess is that a decent dimmer would work just as well.The fence has a single screw at one end and pivots to adjust the width of the cut. When I make an adjustment, I just screw the other end of the fence to the tabletop. Not pretty, but it works! Flush cutter. Innies, outies and in-betweeniesThe 2×8 box extensions for the windows and doors were added during the wall framing. I decided to go with in-betweenie windows since this gave a reasonably balanced look from both the inside and outside and resulted in slightly improved thermal performance.As I mentioned, one of the advantages of self-building is that labor is cheap, so I also opted for a somewhat complex design without worrying too much about the consequences. I chose flanged windows because I felt that they would be easier to install and air seal. The windows were triple-glazed fiberglass and I ordered orientation-specific glazing: solar-block glazing for the west-facing windows, and glazing with a high solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) for all the rest.The house design follows passive solar principles, but the best view (and hence the largest window) is to the west, and trees shade one end of the house to the south, so the site is not ideal for passive solar. However, I settled for somewhat compromised performance and kept the view and the trees. Metal sill flashing was applied to the perimeter and sealed to the base of the wall sheathing using pest-block foam. The flashing offers physical protection to the top edge of the slab foam and the bottom edge of the wall foam, and it ensures that any water is diverted past the edge of the slab.The first job was to get the rigid foam. I tried to use recycled foam, but couldn’t find a source in Canada that could provide the quantity necessary. Trucking recycled foam from the U.S. wiped out any cost advantage (not to mention any environmental advantage).In the end, I ordered 4×8 sheets of 3-inch EPS from a local manufacturer. Because I needed a large quantity, the price was almost the same as used material. I also bought the foam a year early, thinking that most of the shrinkage would occur before I used it. The sheets did shrink about 1/4 inch, but I couldn’t find any actual data on rates of shrinkage so I’m not sure whether this was a useful strategy.I worked out the cuts and the sequencing for application using a 3D drawing program. The foam was cut on the ground and placed without further adjustment (an added advantage of precision building). When assembling the REMOTE shell for a timber-frame building, the first word that comes to mind is “precision” — especially for the framing. As my friends will attest, this job was a perfect fit for me, since I happen to believe that if you are going to all the trouble of measuring and cutting a piece of wood then you may as well measure and cut it to (exactly) the correct length. (You can tell that I don’t do this for a living!)There are two good reasons to build precisely. The first is that the wall and roof have to be spaced out from the timber frame by 5/8 inch and 7/8 inch respectively to allow the drywall and tongue-and-groove ceiling to be installed by slipping them between the frame and the shell. This allows completion of the outer shell (along with the air/water control layer) while still having full access to the inside wall and ceiling bays for plumbing and electrical work. Before assembly of the window boxes, I planed a slope with a small shoulder onto the rough sill so that it would drain to the outside. The rough sill thus has a physical barrier to water intrusion (a small step up). This was easy to do and I think saved a lot of fiddling during the window install. The rigid foam itself was installed in pretty much the same way as for the walls, except there are three layers rather than two. The fit at the eave and rake edge of the roof has to be reasonably accurate so that excess foam doesn’t interfere with the installation of the eave and rake overhangs.Because the bottom of the eave also rests on foam, I was worried about sagging or the roof becoming uneven as it was assembled. I decided to use continuous 2×4 strapping from the ridge to the soffit with the eave pre-built on to the end of the strapping. I pre-cut and assembled each eave extension and then joined it to the strapping. As an added bonus, the eave assembly then keyed to the edge of the wall, so it actually made assembly a little easier. Framing the wall and roofThe wall was constructed using 2x4s at 16 inches o.c. Since the wall is non-structural, the stud spacing could have been 24 inches. But because of the design, thermal bridging is not an issue and I feel that drywall just looks better with studs spaced at 16 inches.The depth of the wall (3 1/2 inches) was selected so that when the insulation is added to the inside bay, the proper balance of inner and outer insulation is maintained (as calculated for my climate). The top plate of the wall was tied to the timber frame using Timberlok screws and 5/8 inch plywood spacers. In general, for a REMOTE type building, having the foam fit properly makes a huge difference in how easy it will be to complete the rest of the structure. Roof sheets were cut on the ground and then simply assembled, with almost no spray foam. The rigid foam for the roof valley was cut with a bevel for a tight fit, and as a bonus this also resulted in offset seams. (However, I did have to first hand cut the full sheet using a fine-toothed saw).For me, the small amount of work required to make the hot-wire cutters more than paid off. But for other builders, the usefulness of these tools will depend on how much foam the project requires. The corners presented an interesting problem, since there is nothing behind the rigid foam to screw to. Typically, two 10-inch-wide pieces of 3/4-inch plywood are used to form the corners, and these are held in place by screws near the edge driven into the corner studs of the wall. I worked out a slightly different method using 2x4s sunk into the foam and screwed through the diagonal into the corner studs. The 2x4s float on a channel in the foam, so the foam corners had to be precise.This method allows for firm attachment of the corner and each piece of strapping can then run continuous to the corner, which I feel improves the strength of the assembly. Rigid foam on the roofThe rigid foam on the roof presented different challenges than the rigid foam on the walls. The total foam thickness is greater (9 inches vs. 6 inches) and the strapping consists of 2x4s on the flat, not 1x4s. In addition, in my design the eaves have to be joined to the strapping and installed at the same time. So the whole process is a little more complex. To ventilate the valleys, I used lattice-type strapping to allow air movement through to the ridge.The addition of the rake extensions was pretty much standard building practice, but I did make use of continuous lattice type strapping to strengthen the overhang.One other detail that may be of interest was the installation of an air-sealed insulated metal chimney support for the wood stove (available from ICC Chimney). A typical chimney collar and flashing arrangement is not even remotely airtight, and there is thermal bridging due to the clearance necessary for the insulated pipe component. The detailing around the window boxes was pretty much standard. I used DuPont FlexWrap and StraightFlash with proper overlapping technique, tying the window flashing into the DrainWrap. The sill flashing was wrapped completely around the box so that it ended at the inside edge of the window. The windows were then installed using silicon caulk, and the flange and head were taped using StraightFlash. I used cap staples to ensure there was a drainage channel at the sill. The house went through a very long and cold Canadian winter in this unfinished state, with only minor leaking through a few of the cap staples. There are no worries about re-sealing any penetrations, since all work occurs inside the control layers. The interior finish surfaces can then be relatively easily applied without fitting around posts and braces.The second reason for precision is that applying the rigid foam and strapping is a challenge in itself without having to guess at the location of every stud or rafter. It is much easier if the framing members are exactly where they are supposed to be and the spacing is maintained over the length of the member by using blocking. BLOGS BY ROB MYERS A Timber-Frame House for a Cold Climate — Part 1A Timber-Frame House for a Cold Climate — Part 2 Bevel cutter. I built a very inexpensive hot-wire foam cutter table and a few hot-wire angle cutters to enable accurate cutting of the foam without foam dust. (I discovered that I have a severe sensitivity to the dust and I now try to avoid it at all cost).The table has a 2×4 frame with an OSB top. (Originally, it was a concrete form.) The arm has to be reasonably stiff. I built mine with a 2×4 column and 1×4 strapping. The arm is 28 inches long; this allows me to cut a 4’x8′ foam sheet into any width. The cutter is nichrome wire from Jacobs Online. One end of the nichrome wire attaches through a hole in the table to a screw connector, while the other end wraps around an eye bolt. The second cutter is for flush cutting the foam on the corners after it is installed. Installing rigid foam on the wallsI would have to say that the thought of cutting and applying multiple layers of rigid foam, followed by driving very long screws through the strapping and foam and into a 1 1/2-inch-wide framing member, filled me with some trepidation. I was not exactly looking forward to the task, to say the least. RELATED ARTICLES Timber FrameGetting Insulation Out of Your Walls and Ceilings ‘Innie’ Windows or ‘Outie’ Windows? The third cutter is for cutting a bevel on an edge (two scraps of wood with the wire screwed across the end so that it cuts the desired angle when moving along the edge of the foam). All just plug in to the same 12-volt power supply. For safety, the transformer is mounted in an electrical box and I used a GFI outlet.The cutters allowed me to rip the 4×8 sheets while maintaining a perfectly square edge as well as cutting angles to match the slope of the flashing at the sill and the valleys.They allowed for better quality work in less time; and aside from providing ease of installation, they almost entirely eliminated the use of spray foam to fill gaps. Spray foam is messy, expensive, and requires more work while up on the roof. (I do as much work as possible on the ground — I am not as young as I used to be!)The cutters also allowed for some details that I would not otherwise have attempted. For example, I wanted to insulate the flanges of my “in-betweenie” windows but still allow for removal of a window if that ever became necessary. (I’m trying to be kind to future generations). I was able to custom-cut foam “flange covers” that friction fit around each window; these flange covers provide continuous insulation to the edge of the frame. Finishing the outer roofThe rest of the roof was straightforward. A layer of 5/8-inch tongue-and-groove plywood was installed. Henry Blueskin rubberized membrane was used on the eaves, valleys, and rakes. This was followed by a layer of roofing underlayment. (Any roofing underlayment approved for metal roofing would be fine here, but I used the DuPont Roofliner since I had lots on hand). I then installed a hidden fastener metal roof.I have been working on the inside of the house this winter without any of the inner insulation installed, and it is still easy to keep warm with a medium-size wood stove. I’m looking forward to seeing how the house performs when it’s finished. Since the window flange would be in the middle of the wall, the depth of the rough framing box was set so that it also terminated in the middle of the wall. This allowed me to later apply insulation to the outside of the flange to provide a thermal break right up to the fiberglass frame itself. (I used two strips of EPS to make it easier to remove the frame if it was ever necessary). Air and water control layersAt this point the timber frame is completely enclosed with a plywood box (except for the windows and doors) and the air control layer is complete. I like to ensure that materials are compatible, so I standardized on one manufacturer for the roof and wall water control layers. I applied Tyvek DrainWrap on the wall sheathing and DuPont Roofliner synthetic underlayment on the roof sheathing. The Drainwrap provides a better drainage plane between the EPS and the plywood, although after the house is completed I can’t imagine a circumstance where this would actually be needed. The Roofliner is tough and can be exposed to sunlight for six months. It worked well as an exposed roof surface over the winter.As mentioned before, I try to build systems that have redundancy. With taped seams, the DrainWrap and Roofliner resulted in a second complete air control layer as well as a water control layer.Both materials were applied shingle-style, from sill to peak. The materials were fastened with cap staples, and then all seams were taped using Tyvek tape. I taped over the cap staples in some areas, but this was a mistake: the tape tended to lift when the weather got severe, especially on the roof. Rob Myers’s previous blog was A Timber-Frame House for a Cold Climate — Part 2. As with the wall strapping, each screw was predrilled and countersunk using a small jig to ensure that the angle was consistent and the hole was straight. Predrilling the strapping was especially important for the roof, because the strapping and foam are both thicker. If you simply try to drive the screw without a pilot hole, then the slightest variation in grain direction will move the screw off axis and it will miss the rafter. I also inserted all screws before lifting the piece to the roof — it is much easier to work on the ground whenever possible rather than hanging off the roof.This is a cold roof (ventilated) design, so the strapping had to run from top to bottom in order to create a ventilation channel. This meant that the strapping follows the inner rafters which in turn meant that warp and twist of the strapping created major problems when I tried to hit a rafter with the screw. A small twist of just 3 degrees would mean that the screw would miss the rafter (assuming everything else is perfect!). To minimize the problem, I rejected any strapping that was obviously twisted or bent. As it was applied, each piece of strapping was screwed first at the top and then the bottom to flatten it. I paid attention and adjusted for any twist when driving the second screw.If there was a warp in the strapping, I snapped a line from center to center before installing the piece. After a screw was installed in each end, the center was pulled into the correct position, as judged by comparing the screw hole to the snapped line. The rest of the screws were then driven, and usually these lined up perfectly. Only about 5% of the screws missed on the first attempt.If a screw did miss, it was fairly obvious. Trying to adjust and re-drive a screw without removal is difficult. (The screw tends to bend and follow the channel in the foam). It is easiest to just remove the screw, re-drill in a new location, and reinstall. The original hole is then filled with a shot of spray foam. Rob Myers is building a timber-frame house in Ontario, Canada, at a site on the Bonnechere River an hour and a half west of Ottawa. The first installment of his blog series was A Timber-Frame House for a Cold Climate — Part 1. In the same manner, the roof was constructed of 2x6s at 16 inches o.c. (The maximum rafter span from purlin to purlin was less than 4 feet). There were no rafter tails or rake overhangs; everything terminates at the edge of the wall.The framing was then sheathed with 1/2-inch plywood which tied the walls to the rafters, forming a continuous shell. In my opinion, plywood is preferable to OSB. I also chose plywood because the house would be going through a Canadian winter without a finished roof, and plywood is the material that I thought would best handle the abuse.As the plywood was installed, I sealed each seam with Siga Wigluv tape. There were no issues with the Wigluv tape adhering to the plywood in the cold — it was near freezing most days — but I always waited for any frost to dissipate before working. Since the tape can be applied to the roof/wall intersection, the air control layer is continuous from foundation to peak. Securing the rigid foam to the wallsThe first 3-inch layer of rigid foam was fastened to the wall using one or two 3 1/2 inch screws and Wind-Lock washers. The second layer was fastened using longer Headlok screws, again with a Wind-Lock washer.The screws for the first layer are embedded by the next layer, so I didn’t bother removing the first-layer screws as I went along. However, the second-layer screws were removed as I added strapping, since they were thermal bridges and served no useful purpose after the strapping was installed. The holes were filled with a shot of spray foam.Although not technically necessary, I covered the rigid foam on the walls with a layer of Tyvek housewrap. This primarily protects the foam during the rest of the build. But it also offers a first line of defense against water intrusion. (It’s cheap insurance).The 1×4 strapping on the walls provides ample bearing on the foam, so there is virtually no compression unless the screw happens to be at an edge (such as near a window). In general, the screw will actually strip out of the wood before there is a lot of visible compression (which is a good reason not to try to countersink the head by overdriving).The strapping was installed 16 inches o.c. using a 9 1/2-inch Headlok screw that penetrates through the foam and into a stud. The screws are driven in a slight upward direction (about 5 degrees off horizontal) to help prevent settling of the strapping when the siding is applied.Each piece of strapping was marked from the drawing for stud location and then pre-drilled using a simple jig to set the angle. The hole is also countersunk so that the screw head does not interfere with the installation of the siding. (Countersinking the screw by over-driving it will cause wavy strapping or a stripped screw hole).If a screw needs to be reset, the original hole was filled with spray foam. Note that different screw patterns will be necessary for different outer wall weights and foam thicknesses. Rob Myers has worked as an analytical chemist, high-tech manager, and purveyor of fiery foods, all of which served to support a lifelong love of woodworking and building (not to mention a wicked tool habit). He is currently on a (possibly permanent) sabbatical from any real job while he builds an off-grid timber-frame home near Eganville, Ontario.
Chelsea midfielder Mount delighted for ‘on-fire’ Abrahamby Freddie Taylor21 days agoSend to a friendShare the loveChelsea youngster Mason Mount is delighted to see Tammy Abraham scoring goal after goal.The 22-year-old’s first Champions League against Lille on Wednesday brought his tally to 8 from 10 games.”He’s [Abraham] on fire and when you have a player like that, any time the ball goes into the box you’re expecting him to get on the end of it or create a chance or get a goal,” Mount told reporters. “It’s brilliant to have him scoring as many as he can.”The thing for him is to focus on continuing these performances and trying to get goals and goals. That’s the main thing for him. He’s a striker, so as many goals as he can score, that’s the best thing for him.” About the authorFreddie TaylorShare the loveHave your say
OSU senior second baseman L Grant Davis (50) hits the ball during a game against Morehead State at Bill Davis Stadium on April 13. OSU won 7-3. Credit: Muyao Shen | Asst. Photo EditorDown 3-2 in the bottom of the seventh inning to Morehead State, OSU co-captain Nick Sergakis stepped into the batter’s box, knowing he had to make up for mistake he committed in the top of the fifth inning.With two outs and a man on third, the normally sturdy third baseman tracked a hard-hit ground ball down the third base line, pushing him to the beginning of left-field grass. His arm failed him, one-hopping the throw to first baseman Troy Kuhn. The senior couldn’t handle it, which scored Eagles junior right fielder Will Schneider from third. Focused and dialed in, the senior from Columbus planted his feet in the box, pointed his bat to the outfield and connected on the very first pitch he saw in his next at-bat, sending his sixth home run of the season over the trees in deep left field, pushing the Buckeyes ahead 4-3 on the two-run blast.“To be honest with you, I didn’t know what I was going to see,” Sergakis said. “They haven’t really pitched to me at all lately. I was looking for a fastball up, and that’s what I got. I just put a swing on it, and once I hit it, I knew it and it put us ahead by one.” OSU senior third baseman Nick Sergakis (21) steps in the box before hitting a go-ahead home run during a game against Morehead State at Bill Davis Stadium on April 13. OSU won 7-3.Credit: Giustino Bovenzi | Lantern reporterThe momentum provided by Sergakis in the seventh charged the Buckeyes into the eight, where they tacked on three more runs on three doubles, sealing the 7-3 win for the Scarlet and Gray.“That’s just how quickly the game of baseball can change,” Sergakis said. “You could put your team down by one, then the next inning put them up by one. That’s how it is, and that’s why you can never hang your head over an error or a strikeout or anything like that.” Earlier in the game, the Buckeyes overcame a slow start and a 2-0 hole thanks to junior center fielder Troy Montgomery. The Fortville, Indiana, native clubbed his sixth home run of the season off the scoreboard in right-center field, scoring sophomore outfielder Tre’ Gantt.OSU coach Greg Beals said Montgomery’s home run really calmed his team’s nerves and allowed it to get settled in.“Montgomery’s home run allowed everybody to be like, ‘OK we’re back into a tie ballgame, we’re not in the hole,’” Beals said. “And then Sergakis’s one was kind of the back-breaker for them, I believe, for him to get that big home run there. Both of them, really big time at-bats.”OSU senior pitcher Daulton Mosbarger was effective in his first start of his career. In the no-decision, the Bellefontaine, Ohio, product lasted 4.1 innings, allowing two earned runs on four hits, two walks and one strikeout.Redshirt sophomore pitcher Kyle Michalik (1-0) picked up his first career victory for his 3.2 innings of scoreless relief, allowing just two hits. The Brunswick, Ohio, native said it was great to pick up his first career win because his mother was in attendance to see it unfold.“It’s a really good feeling, to finally get your first career win here,” Michalik said. “I’ve just been working real hard at everything, and I’m kind of at a loss of words to be honest with you. First win just feels really good.”OSU is scheduled to return to action with a three-game Big Ten series against Rutgers. Junior lefty Tanner Tully is slated to take the mound in Game 1 for OSU, which is set to start at 6:35 p.m. on Friday.
29Nov House supports Rep. Brann bills protecting family pets Categories: Brann News,News The House today approved legislation by state Rep. Tommy Brann to improve protections for companion and family pets.Under House Bill 4332, it would be a crime to knowingly torture or kill an animal with the intent to cause mental distress or exert control over a person. The legislation would create first-, second- and third-degree offenses depending on severity, while partnering with HB 4333 to update sentencing guidelines of up to 10 years imprisonment.“Pets are a crucial part of many Michigan families, often like children and close friends,” said Brann, of Wyoming. “Anyone willing to injure or torture a family pet with the goal of manipulating someone is probably not going to stop there. It could be a child or a parent next. Besides seeking protection of our family pets, we’re also going to stop this sadistic behavior before it becomes even worse.”The bills were inspired by a conversation overheard at his Wyoming restaurant, where several individuals discussed how “to get back at someone,” including killing their pet.Brann’s legislation is supported by the Wayne County Prosecutor’s Office and Michigan Coalition to End Domestic and Sexual Violence.“Animal abuse continues to be a growing a problem in Michigan and we absolutely need to address it,” Brann said. “I anticipate that it will be a solution to help address this awful behavior. It will close a loophole in the law and prevent even more damage being inflicted on a family or loved one.”HBs 4332 and 4333 advance to the Senate for their consideration.
We get the next phase of the competition underway at home on Friday August 10 to Simon Woolford’s resurgent Huddersfield Giants before travelling to Wakefield six days later.The derby follows after a possible Ladbrokes Challenge Cup Final appearance.Saints will then sandwich a home game with Hull FC with trips to Catalan and Warrington before closing out their Super 8s campaign to Castleford at the Totally Wicked Stadium on Friday September 28.The Fixtures:RD1: Friday August 10 (7:45pm) – Huddersfield Giants (H) RD2: Thursday August 16 (7:45pm) – Wakefield Trinity (A) (SKY) RD3: Friday August 31 (7:45pm) – Wigan Warriors (H) (SKY) RD4: Saturday September 8 (5:30pm) – Catalans Dragons (A) RD5: Friday September 14 (7:45pm) – Hull FC (H) RD6: Friday September 21 (7:45pm) – Warrington Wolves (A) RD7: Friday September 28 (7:45pm) – Castleford Tigers (H)Four Game Package:We are giving fans the opportunity to be at all of our four home Super 8s fixtures with our fantastic Super 8s package.This package offers you the chance to save up to £15 for Adults, £9 for Concessions, £13 for Youth and £28 for Juniors.Prices:West stand: £80 (Adult) £55 (Concessions) £45 (Youth) £20 (Junior)Bronze: £85 (Adult) £65 (Concessions) £50 (Youth) £20 (Junior)Silver: £100 (Adult) £75 (Concessions) £55 (Youth) £20 (Junior)To get your Super 8s package pop into the Ticket Office at the Totally Wicked Stadium, call 01744 455 052 or log on here.Hospitality:A Super 8s Hospitality package has been created to cover all of our four home games in the next phase of the Super League competition – available now for both the 1873 and Stapleton Derby Premier Lounge.Join us to entertain existing or prospective clients, reward your staff, or simply to spend time with family or friends at the home of the Saints.Recently nominated in the 2018 Stadium Experience awards, we provide outstanding food alongside great seats in the South Stand, the opportunity to hear from Saints legends and members of the first-team squad and a visit from Man of the Match to talk us through the game from his point of view.You might even be visited at your table by our resident lounge magician!Packages are available for both adults and juniors aged 12 and under, with existing 2018 seasonal members receiving a discounted upgrade price.Why not give us a try?These great value packages are on sale now and can be purchased here or over the phone on 01744 455 053.1873 Lounge Prices:Adult Upgrade – £159 + vat, Adult Standard – £199 + vatJunior Upgrade – £95 + vat, Junior Standard – £120 + vat1873 Lounge Match by Match Prices (excl vat):CategoryAdult Member UpgradeJunior Member UpgradeAdult PriceJunior PriceWigan & Castleford£55£33£70£42Hull FC & Huddersfield£45£25£55£30Four Game Package£159£95£199£120Stapleton Derby Premier Lounge Four Game Package Prices:Members: Adult: £135 (+vat)Non Members: Adult: £170 (+vat)Stapleton Derby Premier Lounge Match by Match Prices:CategoryMembers Upgrade Matchday Price Wigan & Castleford£45 adult – £20 junior£55 adult – £25 juniorHull FC & Wakefield£40 adult – £15 junior£50 adult – £20 juniorMatchday prices are exclusive of vat.Please note Sky have not yet selected their broadcast fixtures for Rounds 5, 6 and 7, therefore the fixtures are subject to change.,Join us to entertain existing or prospective clients, reward your staff, or simply to spend time with family or friends at the home of the Saints.Recently nominated in the 2018 Stadium Experience awards, we provide outstanding food alongside great seats in the South Stand, the opportunity to hear from Saints legends and members of the first-team squad and a visit from Man of the Match to talk us through the game from his point of view.You might even be visited at your table by our resident lounge magician!Packages are available for both adults and juniors aged 12 and under, with existing 2018 seasonal members receiving a discounted upgrade price.Why not give us a try?These great value packages are on sale now and can be purchased here or over the phone on 01744 455 053.1873 Lounge Prices:Adult Upgrade – £159 + vat, Adult Standard – £199 + vatJunior Upgrade – £95 + vat, Junior Standard – £120 + vat1873 Lounge Match by Match Prices (excl vat):CategoryAdult Member UpgradeJunior Member UpgradeAdult PriceJunior PriceWigan & Castleford£55£33£70£42Hull FC & Huddersfield£45£25£55£30Four Game Package£159£95£199£120